
Crush is a little like New Years for us. It’s the start of a new vintage; the slate is clean and hopes are high. And all our wine experiments are a little like New Year’s resolutions. Our creative juices flow with the prospect of trying out the new ideas we’ve been noodling for the past year. We have a couple pretty adventurous experiments in the works with the 2011 vintage. One that is keeping us fit is the Red Wine Barrel Fermentation.
This is not a new concept. The practice of fermenting red wine in barrel has been around for some time. The “new” is putting this high-end-wine concept to use for a wine that sell for around $15.
Normally, red wine juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks; the lees are pressed off at dryness and the wine is barreled down for aging. Tank fermentation is a very effective and very efficient way to extract flavor and color from red grapes. The advantage of going straight into barrel for fermentation is a more complete integration of the oak with the wine. It intensifies the flavor, stabilizes the color and softens the tannins. The disadvantage is that the method is laborious and time consuming. That is: expensive. One of our goals is to figure out a cost effective way to pull this off.
Ten brand new barrels were purchased for this experiment. Our first task was to pop off one of the heads of each barrel in order to shovel in the grapes. The first top was a little tricky, but our crew quickly got the hang of barrel deconstruction. We used our 2011 Lake County Cabernet for this experiment because we wanted a varietal with big tannin structure that could handle the onslaught of all that new wood. And we wanted a varietal with tight, firm clusters. That second reason was self-serving. Shoveling tight, whole clusters into an open-top barrel is much easier than trying to shovel sloppy, loose clusters. Once filled, we inoculated the barrel with yeast and closed it up.
Our second task was to mix the fermenting juice with the “cap” of grape skins and seeds. When we ferment in tanks, we pump the juice over the skins to extract color and flavor. We can’t really do that with wine locked inside a barrel. So we did the ingeniously practical thing: we rolled the barrels. Now, those barrels are really heavy and lifting them off the barrel rack and on to the ground for a good roll would have been problematic. But our crew shaved off the ends of some old barrel racks, welded a couple shaved racks together to make one long, sloped run and cozied them up to the sides of the barrels. And then just rolled the barrels off their racks. We walked the barrels up and down the run four times a day, seven days a week while fermentation was roiling. As fermentation neared completion, we rolled just once a week. Turns out this is a great upper-body work out which you can see in our video.
The barrel-fermented Lake County Cabernet will be pressed off the skins in January and put back into the same barrels. The wine tastes great at this point, the color is fantastic and flavors are complex. We’ll keep you posted on the progress.